BOTTLE TALK: NICK COZENS OF NON
We’re diving back into the processes, personalities, and places that shape the bottles we love. Next up is NON – the Melbourne-based brand redefining what it means to drink well, sans alcohol. After a hangover-free July, we caught up with Nick Cozens to talk bold ingredients, flavour theory, and how the city’s dining scene continues to fuel his palate.
Tell us who you are and what you do.
I’m Nick Cozens, head of beverage and innovation at NON.
How did you find your way into the non-alcoholic space?
It was probably more of an opportune moment than anything else. I’ve always worked in and around food and flavour but constantly want to evolve my knowledge and understanding. The non-alcoholic world made sense because there is so much to discover.
What three words best capture the spirit of NON?
Growth, innovation and flavour.
Where in Melbourne inspires your palate – bars, bakeries, restaurants, etc?
I would say it’s more about inspiring an occasion. Sunset rosé on the front tables of Leonardo’s Pizza Palace in Carlton with a bowl of pasta and some anchovy toast. Monday steak night at Builders Arms Hotel in Fitzroy in winter with a glass of juicy red. A funky, natty wine with some small snacks at Bar Liberty late on a Saturday. 5pm, random weeknight, smokey Scotch at Whisky and Alement in the CBD. These visits become more than just a singular drink or food item, they invoke a sense of emotion that’s hard to replicate.
What’s the most surprising ingredient you’ve ever thrown into a blend?
I don’t know if anything surprises me anymore. Chefs and bartenders are constantly pushing the boundaries with flavours. Davidson plum really intrigued me with how powerful the acidity and tannin was without changing the aroma at all. Toasted apricot kernels give a rich aroma of almond liqueur with almost no flavour whatsoever in the resulting liquid.
NON isn’t just for sipping straight; what’s the most creative or unexpected use of it you’ve seen?
The NON7 Stewed Cherry & Coffee has some pretty big flavours which I’ve seen paired with just about every type of food dish imaginable; from a reduction poured over venison, to stretching out a mole sauce for a mushroom and Medjool date dish. I’ve also seen it in a Batanga cocktail variation, with tequila and salt and lime.
What do you love most about your job?
Still being a smallish team, in a newly emerging drinks category, there’s so much to learn. Every day is different and requires solutions to different problems that are always getting tossed up. I’m not happy unless I’m learning, which means I’m happy every day.
What’s coming down the pipeline – any new drops or experiments you can tease?
Probably a few more collaborations in the near future, it’s always good getting a different perspective on flavour and what we do from an outside legend.
Any other local drink makers we should have on our radar – either alcoholic or non?
Dave Verheul from Saison Aperitifs is an industry leader in terms of flavour and quality, and an all around great guy. Orlando Marzo from Loro Bottled Cocktails is pioneering new ways of using ingredients and creating flavour. I’m also yet to have a bad drop from Gary at Jamsheed Wines.
If The StandardX were a NON blend, which would we be and why?
The NON8 Torched Apple & Oolong stands out for me; super complex under the surface with a lot of moving parts to get to the final product. It’s not always visible on the surface how much work goes on behind the scenes, but a lot of things need to come together for something special like that to exist. Simplistic sophistication.
